I've been fascinated with molas since I first heard about them in a Spanish class in college. So when I heard an exhibit of molas had opened at El Museo Cultural here in Santa Fe, I had to go.
What's a mola? It's an intricately hand-sewn blouse panel created by the Guna (formerly known as the Kuna) Indians in Panama:
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| Lynne Cantwell 2026 |
The person creating the top makes two more-or-less identical panels, one for the front of the blouse and one for the back. Usually today, you see the panels already separated from the rest of the blouse. The tops aren't everyday wear, and some of them have spiritual elements. But over the years, as the art form became better known, some artists began making molas for trade. I'm pretty sure these two musical panels fall into that category.
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| Lynne Cantwell 2026 |
Here's a closeup of one of the stringed instruments in the lower panel above, so you can see why I think molas are so cool. The little squares and some of the strips are applique, or sewn on top separately. But a lot of the stripes are reverse applique -- that is, several pieces of fabric in different colors are stacked atop each other, the layers are cut away to reveal the color underneath, and the edges are hand-stitched down. The Guna also embroider some details.
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| Lynne Cantwell 2026 |
Each shirt takes between 60 and 80 hours to sew. That's a lot of hand sewing.
Sometimes, as here, the work seems abstract until you look more closely. I'm definitely seeing birds and at least one frog.
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| Lynne Cantwell 2026 |
Most of the Guna live in Gunayala (the former San Blas Islands), but some live in the jungle on the mainland. These Guna haven't had as much contact with outsiders, so their work is wilder and less symmetrical. Here's one example.
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| Lynne Cantwell 2026 |
This exhibit contains just a small selection from the collection of Kit and Valerie Kapp. Kit took tourists on sailboat tours in the Caribbean between 1960 and 1971, and while living in Panama, he became fascinated with Guna culture and art. In all, he and his wife Valerie collected more than 5,000 mola textiles, as well as hundreds of carved healing figurines and other items. It wasn't until after Kit died that Valerie realized the extent of the collection. She and her supporters are now raising money to fund a research center and museum for Indigenous art in Panama City.
In the meantime, parts of the collection are shown in exhibits like this one. It's called "Angels, Mermaids and Umbrellas: The spiritual, whimsical, wonderful art of the Guna people of Panama", and it's open at El Museo Cultural de Santa Fe in the Railyard until the end of August.
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I can see parallels between the Gunas' use of color and the dyed yarn we make and use at El Rancho de las Golondrinas. Some people seem to think that folks in more primitive times and cultures lived in brown, black and white, but it's not true. The Guna obviously revel in brightly colored fabrics. And all of the natural dyes we use at the ranch today were available in the 1600s and even before that. Bright colors are not a modern thing.
Which makes it kind of ironic that interior decorators today want everything to be in shades of beige or gray (if "greige" isn't a made-up concept, I don't know what is), with maybe a "pop of color" here and there. To that, I say, ho-hum.
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These moments of fun-filled blogginess have been brought to you, as a public service, by Lynne Cantwell. Use more color! Have more fun!
